[ Eyebeam bio ]

Working with Hernani Dias on the Re:Farm project (see my previous post for some more info about the Re:Farm project), my first objective is to create the PCB for the Re:Farm On The Wall module, a data visualization module using an LED display to present data away from the computer screen.

[ details after the break ]

Here’s Hernani’s original sketch for displaying the soil moisture level from 6 sensors:

This design uses 7 LEDs to display the soil moisture level for each of 6 sensors (42 in all). The design concept has been formalized as seen below:

The module still has 7 LEDs for each sensor (or farm/garden), but with the addition of LEDs between the groups (for a total of 48) to create a complete circle which can be used with other templates, such as the one below, for visualizing other data such as temperature or humidity:

Ideally, the board will also incorporate a stepper motor to drive a needle (like a speedometer) for an additional data channel.

I’m going to first concentrate on the LED display. Since the board will make use of an ATMEGA microcontroller (Arduino) chip and an XBee radio (to receive the data), real estate on the approx. 3″ x 3″ board is already a bit tight, so I am currently researching Charlieplexing, an LED driving scheme which allows N*(N-1) LEDs to be directly driven by N pins of the microcontroller. 8 data pins from the microcontroller can thus be used to control the 48 LEDs since Charlieplexing with 8 pins allows control of up to 8*7=56 LEDs.

At The Next HOPE conference this past weekend (blog post about the conference forthcoming), Jimmie P. Rogers was demo’ing and selling his LoL (Lots of LEDs) Shields for the Arduino. He has a great post about his work with Charlieplexing which I’m currently consulting. Talk about serendipity!

In a way, the overlap between the needs of Hernani’s project and my own interests in lighting and internet-enabled lighting fixtures is serendipitous as well.  It’s great to be working on a project that is seemingly so diverse from my own projects, yet has so much overlap on the technical side.

It’s also been interesting to observe Hernani’s design approach/philosophy which stems from his graphic design background.  It seems like everything starts from the aesthetic: the documentation for the project has some of the nicest component diagrams I’ve seen; and even his calendar is created in Illustrator

This post assumes some knowledge of PCB etching methods and is an account of my experience with the toner transfer method. If this is new to you, you may have to get Googling on a few of things mentioned here. That said, I’ve linked to the sites I found most useful during the process.

Intro

Up until now, I’ve been hand wiring all the the circuits for my Electric Window series.

It’s a fairly straightforward process to build the circuit on a piece of protoboard, and for an Electric Window 3 circuit, it takes about two hours. The bottleneck of this process is preparing all the connecting wires (shown in white in the above photo) and ensuring all the interconnections are correct, ie, connecting the right components to the right pins of the microprocessor and the power and ground points.

While I find this process efficient/adequate for one-off circuits and prototypes, it gets monotonous when making multiple copies of the same circuit.

For our recent contribution to the Chinatown Remixed exhibition, Deb and I (working as The Latest Artists) envisioned a series of Electric Window 3 light boxes, displaying various animations along with text from Twitter via a wireless internet connection. I decied to use this as an opportunity to finally learn how to etch PCBs.

I’d previously been intimidated by the PCB etching process for similar reasons as Collin from Make:

There seemed to be a steep learning curve, as I’d yet to use electronic CAD software such as Eagle, and the actual etchning process seemed finicky and messy.

After watching Collin’s video, a few others on YouTube, and reading some on-line tutorials (found via Google), I decided to attempt etching with the toner transfer method, since I already have a laser printer and clothes iron.

[ More after the break . . . ]

Schematic capture and circuit layout

The first order of business was to electronically capture the schematic and create the board layout.

I knew I’d be creating a single-sided board for the sake of simplicity, so I created a rough layout by hand — based on my existing hand-drawn schematic (not shown) — to get an idea of where the components should best be and which microprocessor pins were best to avoid crossing wires and/or requring jumpers:

As I said, rough, but it was enough to get going.

While there are plenty of software alternatives, free and otherwise, for schematic capture and PCB layout, I decided to go with Eagle because a) it’s free to use for 3″ x 4″ boards, and b) there’s an abundance of resources/help out there for it.

I used this helpful tutorial and parts library from Sparkfun to get going with the program, and soon enough I had my first CAD schematic:

I then moved onto the PCB layout portion and used the auto-route feature to start the intimidating process of trace layout. With a bit of additional tweaking by hand, I had a layout I was happy with. I originally designed the board to be 3″ x 1.5″ but that resulted in tight traces and traces running really close to microprocessor pin connections. Being unsure of the tolerances/accuracy of the etching process to come, I decided to give the circuit more margin and ended up with a 3″ x 2″ board:

Toner transfer

Although I’d repeatedly read that glossy or photo paper was best to print the circuit for transfer onto the copper board, I didn’t have any of these fancy papers on hand, and didn’t want to make a trip to the store if I didn’t have to. So I decided to try it with regular paper.

I readied my otherwise unused clothses iron:

Naturally I didn’t turn it on until resting it on its back, and I wish more turorials were explicit about whether or not you should have water in there or not. The answer is no.

I cut my copper board to size and used a sponge to clean it with isopropyl alchohol (a 70% solution from the drug store).

I grabbed a scrap piece of wood to do the ironing on:

and it didn’t work. After several attempts to iron the circuit pattern onto the pattern from regular paper, it just wouldn’t stick. Whenever I’d move the iron around, the paper would slip and the result would be a smugged circuit pattern on the copper board.

I really didn’t want to make a run to the store for special paper, so I consulted Google instead. I found this great article explaining how you can use glossy magazine paper, the principle being that the laser toner doesn’t stick very well to it, thus making it easy to transfer onto the copper — the same principle behind using special glossy or photo paper I’d previously read about.

I set to work with the cheaper and more easily available magazine paper I already had around, trimming it to fit my printer before making a few prints of the circuit:

Back to the ironing board:

and it stuck! The paper stuck pretty much immediatly after applying heat with the iron, and I was able to move the iron around and evenly heat the entire circuit. Soon I could see the traces through the paper:

I let the board cool a bit, then put it in a sink of warm water. The magazine paper came off very easily, and the traces didn’t budge or scratch away. I’d read that you need to let the paper soak for 5-10 minutes before it’ll come off the board, but I found with the magainze paper it only needed to soak for 2 or 3.

I’d also read that you need to press really hard while ironing, and iron for 5 or more minutes. I’m not sure so much force and time are required with the magazine paper technique, as I ended up with a few smudged traces:

Specifically, there were a few pads that had shorted together on the transfer:

Using an X-Acto knife, I was easily able to scrape spaces between the pads before etching.

Etching

Now the fun part: etching with chemicals!

I decided to use ferric chloride since I didn’t want to mix my own etchant with ammonium persulphate and water, or the like.

I bought some handy etching trays with corner spouts at the local electronics store, and with some chemical resistant gloves, got set up in the utility sink:

Rubber gloves on from this point: I filled one tray with water for rinsing, and I poured about a centimetre (0.4″) of etchant into the other one. I put the circuit board, traces up (more about this later), in the etchant, and let it soak for about 15 minutes. Not much seemed to be happening, so I decided to try the scrubing technique described in Sonodrome’s great tutorial video:

It worked like a charm, the exposed copper started to come off the board, while the circuit traces held up well, even against fairly rigorous scrubbing. Caution needed to be taken at this step to avoid splashing etchant around, though!

Here’s the etched board with the toner still in tact. I think it looks silver/white from remaining fibres of the magazine paper:

Next I used isopropyl alchohol and a sponge (seperate from the one I used to scrub with etchant) to clean off the toner. Some of the pads had smugged edges, faithful to the smudged transfer image, but the board had no short or open circuits:

Drilling and assembly

I trimmed to board to length, and drilled the holes. Since I aready have a Dremel tool, I bought the Dremel drill press attachment and a package of small bits. I also bought the Dremel keyless chuck to accomodate the smaller bits.

Despite not being carbide bits, as recommended by many tutorials for drilling PCBs, they worked fine, and didn’t break or noticeably dull.

Lastly, I populated and soldered the board:

Not the most photogenic, but totally functional I wanted to tin the board, but the local shop where I got my supplies didn’t have any tinning materials.

Initial impressions

So, did I save any time!?

Let’s compare. I takes me 2 hours to make this circuit from protoboard. I’m familiar enough with the circuit that I don’t need to keep refering to the schematic, the real time taking tedium of this method is cutting all the connecting wires.

To learn Eagle and create the PCB layout, I spent about 6 hours. Since this was my first time through the process, I’m not sure how much of this time I should count against the protoboard method.

Etching and drilling, including the necessary clean-up of nasty chemicals was about an hour the first time through. Again, part of a learning process.

Soldering the circuit took only around fifteen minutes, though.

For one circuit board, this definately didn’t save any time.

Rinse and repeat

I needed 3 more boards for the Chinatown Remixed installation, so I did all these in a second etching session.

I made a few modifications to the layout, to run the traces clearer of the microprocessor pads, and to move the programming header (bottom centre) away from the LED screen connector (upper left) to make it easier to program the board when attached to the LED screen (glad I didn’t make all 4 like this!).

Here’s the 3 boards after ironing the toner transfer to the copper:

I did the 3 boards seperately instead of together on one larger boards to experiment with the timing of various steps of the process. This time around, some of my traces broke, so I repaired these with a black Sharpie marker.

All the boards etched successfully, including the portions repaired by the Sharpie. Next, I drilled them: all the small holes first, followed by large holes; I did this in case I accidentally drilled a large hole with a small bit, allowing me to enlarge it if necessary.

Next impressions

So, did I save any time across multiple boards?

The answer is yes! Although, for this circuit I only saved about 15 minutes per board compared to the protoboarding method (not including the time spent learning Eagle). However, I assume there would be more time savings with more complex boards.

That said, I do feel that I saved labour. Soldering each circuit together on a protoboard, making sure to correctly wire each connection requires considerable mental attention, in contrast to the “dumb labour” required to etch and drill the boards, followed by the comparatively easy task of populating the boards without having to handwire all the interconnections.

Another advantage to the PCB method was that Deb and I could work in parallel to solder the boards together.

I also imagine I’ll shave some time off as I become more proficient with the process, so I’ll definately continue to etch my own PCBs!

Some tips

I would highty recommend the use of glossy magazine paper for printing your circuit designs on: it’s cheap/free; you probably have some already; and it comes off in water very easily and quickly.

If you use glossy magazine paper, I found that a lot of ironing pressure wasn’t required, just be firm. I also found it only took about 3-4 minutes (for a 3″ x 2″ board) to do the transfer. More time can actually start to smudge the transfer, as discussed above. You’ll have to experient with this.

High speed steel (HSS) bits seem to work fine. I ordered some additional bits from Digikey for drilling the PCBs, since I’ve read so many times that anything other than carbide bits will dull very quickly when drilling PCBs. I’ve found the HSS bits to work well so far. Bare in mind I’ve only done about a half dozen boards. However, I have yet to break a bit and the bits are much cheaper than carbide. I just bought a bunch of bits to compensate for any dulling. For the price of one carbide bit, I was able to buy 3 HSS bits.

If you are not agitating (ie, constantly moving) the board in etchant, place the board traces up. I’ve heard that putting the traces face down enlists gravity to help remove the etched copper, but I found the ridges on the bottom of my etching tray started to leave lines on my circuit when I didn’t agitate.

The finished product

If you’ve read this far, you’re probably curious about the final product these circuit boards belong to!

They’re used to drive LED displays from Sure Electronics, for a series of Electric Window 3 light boxes in a public art installation.

The following picture shows 3 of the Sure displays cascaded, and the driver circuit with an XBee radio attached:

The XBee is used to wirelessly query a WiFi-enabled master controller (not shown) for strings of text to display, from Twitter; this post has a clear explanation of the final installation.

The black, rectangular connector on the bottom-left of the driver circuit mates directly with the LED display, as shown below:

The dangly bit on the bottom left is the power connector.

Next these units were installed in custom-made, acrylic enclosures:

Here’s some “still on the bench” shots of the finished boxes:

The deadline for this project didn’t permit time for better photos of the final boxes before installation on-site, so stay tuned for more pics and videos.

Thanks for checkin’ all this out, all the best with your circuit etching endeavors!

The audio is straight from a drum machine, triggering the video in real time which is done in Processing; this initial draft shows that this is just the tip of the iceberg for what’s possible . . .

Although I didn’t learn anything new technology-wise, I was very pleased to learn about his great series of techno podcasts.

[ Via Dubspot's blog. ]

The work of production is really reduction.

From this video:

Found via Innercityvison’s blog.

People are finding it easy to publish something without any controls. And this is the problem with the internet in general. There is so much information, and no one knows if it’s true or not. It’s just there. It’s an information monster.

From Resident Advisor’s recent interview w/ Ricardo Villabolos.

Here’s a fantastic survey of embedded computing platforms, covering everything from Arduino to plug-and-play modular systems:

http://www.partly-cloudy.com/misc

Makes for a really handy reference!

As the only electronic artists in the show, we built a triptych of animated light boxes representing the stars of Orion’s Belt.

Using an Arduino to control a TLC5940 LED driver chip with Alex Leone’s awesome library, I wrote the software for the project to “randomly” fade a set of 16 LEDs inside each fixture, creating an ever changing field of fast/slow, long/short, many/few twinkling stars.

Here’s the ubiqitous “Arduino + LEDs in a breadboard” shot — testing the driver chip:

After successful breadboarding, custom Arduino + driver chip boards were soldered together:

After a lot of sawing, sanding, and painting, the frames were stuffed with the LEDs and mirrors for the final products:

“Nocture” runs @ Cube Gallery from 20 May to 30 June 2009.

Here’s the official write-up for the pieces:

THE BELT OF ORION

The Latest Artists (Andrew + Deborah O’Malley), May 2009

17” x 17” x 5” (x3)

Wood, mirrors, LEDs, custom electronics

With gracious support from the Ontario Arts Council

Orion, often referred to as “The Hunter,” is a prominent constellation – one of the largest, most conspicuous, and most recognizable in the night sky. Its name refers to Orion, a hunter in Greek mythology. Orion’s brilliant stars are found on the celestial equator and are visible throughout the world. THE BELT OF ORION, known by many names across ancient cultures, is comprised of three stars: Zeta Orionis, Epsilon Orionis and Delta Orionis.

Zeta Orionis is a triple star some 800 light years distant in the constellation Orion. Zeta Orionis is the left-most star. The primary star is a hot blue supergiant with an absolute magnitude of -5.25. It is the brightest class O star in the night sky with a visual magnitude of 1.70. It has two bluish 4th magnitude companions.

Epsilon Orionis is the middle star. A large blue star, it is the 30th brightest star in the sky. As a blue-white supergiant it is one of the most luminous stars known. Within the next million years, this star may turn into a red supergiant and explode as a supernova. It is surrounded by a molecular cloud, NGC 1990, which it brightens to make a reflection nebula. Its stellar winds may reach up to 2000 km/s, causing it to lose mass about 20 million times more rapidly than the Sun.

Delta Orionis, is a star some 900 light years distant in the constellation Orion. Delta Orionis is the right-most star at the western end of Orion’s belt. Delta Orionis has a magnitude 7 star about 52″ away from the main component and an even fainter star in between. The main component itself is also double, consisting of a class B giant and a smaller, but hotter class O. The stars orbit each other every 5.73 days. These two stars are both about 70,000 times as luminous as the Sun with a mass of some 20 solar masses.

(Source: Wikipedia)

Naturally, animated light sculptures are best documented with a video:

Seems the temptation to combine Arduino with LEDs was just too great

I decided my participation in Ottawa Chinatown’s first Chinatown Remixed exhibition made for a great opportunity to try my hand at this whole Arduino thing. Given the front window of a local business in which to showcase a project, I envisioned an illuminated sign interacting with the pedestrian traffic out on the sidewalk.

With a helping hand from Deb, we built a sign from electroluminescent wire and used a first Arudino to control the various words and syllables of the exhibition title, “Chinatown Remixed.”

A second Arduino was paired with an ultrasonic sensor to create a proximity sensor placed outside the restaurant to detect pedestrians and send this information wirelessly to the sign inside (with an FM transmitter + receiver and the VirtualWire library).

The sidewalk activity detected by the sensor was used to trigger sequence changes to the words/syllables lit up on the sign. The governing concept of the project was to build an animated sign that was literally remixed by the community.

Here’s the official write-up that accompanied the piece on site:

“CHINATOWN REMIXED”

Interactive light installation

60” x 30”

Plexiglass, electroluminescent wire, custom electronics

This interactive lighting installation is activated by a custom-built, wireless motion sensor, which responds to nearby pedestrian and auto traffic. This motion triggers a random rearrangement of the sign’s syllables.

Aesthetically referencing traditional neon signage – found in abundance in Shanghai and “Chinatowns” around the world – the reflection of neighborhood activity is combined with an element of chance to create a play on words and meaning. The installation remixes the role of signage between informative and ambiguous.

For info on other works or to inquire about light commissions of all kinds, please visit www.aomalley.org.

Andrew + Deborah O’Malley

May, 2009

With the gracious support of the Ontario Arts Council.

Unfortunately I don’t have any pics of the build process, and the installed piece proved quite difficult to document, thanks to competing lighting levels and a lot of glare. Here’s a short video of the sign in action, though:

Not bad for a first Arduino project, sure beats a couple flashing LEDs

In all fairness, my previous experience with PIC microcontrollers and electronics obviously came into play with this project; combining that with the streamlined Arduino programming environment and vast array of libraries, tutorials, and examples, it feels like my embedded computing experience went from fighting traffic in a clunker to whizzing down the highway in a sports car.